Konica C35 update
The Konica C35 has gone to the big shelf in the sky. I wrote that it had extensive internal corrosion, and that I'd tried to clean it up. But the battery compartment tabs had enough surface contamination to prevent any solder from adhering, so there was no chance to attach new wiring. The battery box is separate from the camera body, which should be a good thing. It's a plastic case meant for 2 button cells. But the worst news was that exposure mechanism is inoperative. I tried attaching a power supply to it and pointed a powerful flashlight into the photocell, but nothing worked. Now, it could be either the photocell or the exposure mechanism, there's no way of knowing.
I've been lucky so far with the old cameras I've picked up. This is the first one that's seriously gorfed. I put in a bid on another C35 on the shopgoodwill.com website. I was outbid, but I also received an email from the seller stating that the battery compartment could not be opened. Chances are, it's badly corroded too.
I like these small 35mm rangefinders. They'd make very nice pocket cameras, though I have to say that the Olympus XA is certainly an outstanding one. Still, I bought this C35 for five dollars at a flea market, so I'm not out much cash and I've learned quite a bit.
Labels: konica c35
posted by Ed W at 8:32 PM
4 Comments:
I got one for $2. The battery compartment does not open, the seals are rotten (good old electrical tape came in handy to seal it from the outside) and I just shot a roll manually. It is a gem of a camera and very pleased with it. It is a shame I cannot use the metering, but it still takes great photos and appears to be VERY forgiving with wild guesses in aperture.
You've inspired me. I've got a functioning C35 EF that's missing its rewind knob. I'm going to buy a parts camera (saw a couple on eBay) and fix it (or at least try).
Greg...one thing that bothered me immensely about this camera is that the solder joints - at least on the battery case - seem to have acid flux. It's caused some corrosion and made re-soldering the tabs difficult. I tried rosin flux and even a micro-blaster, but I cannot get these tabs to take solder.
Just an FYI/
Thanks, Ed, I appreciate the heads-up. Thankfully it seems to be sound both electrically and mechanically. I'm hoping all I'll have to do is replace the knob and spindle. I'll let you know how it turns out if and when I actually take it on.
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